When Lash Lifts Go Wrong: How to Fix Over-processed or Under-processed Lashes

Lash lifts are a game-changer for enhancing natural lashes, but like any beauty treatment, things can occasionally go wrong. Whether it’s overprocessed lashes that appear brittle and damaged or underprocessed lashes that lack the desired lift, these issues can leave clients frustrated.

In this article, we’ll explore the causes behind lash lift mishaps and, most importantly, how to fix them. From practical solutions to the best aftercare products, we’ve got you covered.

This is an over-processed lash lift.

Brittle Texture: The lashes appear dry and stiff, lacking their natural softness and flexibility.

1. Uneven Curl: Some lashes might be curled tightly at odd angles, while others look limp or straightened unnaturally.

2. Frizzy or Splintered Ends: The tips of the lashes could look frayed, resembling split ends on hair.

3. Lack of Shine: The lashes would appear dull, with no healthy sheen or luster.

4. Sparse Look: Overprocessed lashes might have some noticeable gaps due to breakage or fall-out.

5. Discoloration: In extreme cases, lashes could have a faded or bleached appearance.

Overprocessed Lashes: What It Means, Signs, and Causes

What Does "Overprocessed" Mean?
Overprocessed lashes occur when the chemical components of a lash lift treatment cause damage to the hair structure. This typically happens when products are left on for too long or are too strong for the client's lash type.

Signs of Overprocessed Lashes:

• Dry, brittle lashes prone to breakage.

• Overly curled lashes that look unnatural.

• Frizzy or irregular lash texture.

What Causes Overprocessed Lashes?

• Excessive chemical exposure due to extended processing times.

• Not assessing lashes properly to determine processing times.

• Incorrect application techniques, such as uneven product distribution.

How to Fix Over-processed Lashes

Repairing overprocessed lashes takes time and care. While there’s no instant fix, there are steps you can take to nurse lashes back to health:

1. Conditioning Care Is Key
   To start the repair process, focus on hydration and nourishment. The InLei® Fashion Lash Fix and Conditioning Gel is a top recommendation for clients with over-processed lashes. This product not only deeply conditions the lashes but also serves as a fixing gel to make lashes more manageable whilst we wait for new lashes to grow and to improve the structure and texture.

2. Patience and Growth Support
   Encourage clients to wait for the natural lash growth cycle to replace damaged lashes. In the meantime, continue conditioning treatments and avoid harsh chemical procedures.

3. Future Protection
   Educate clients about proper aftercare and emphasize the importance of using high-quality, lash-safe products to prevent over-processing in the future.

   Top Tip: Protect lifted lashes from prolonged UV exposure! Just like hair, lashes are susceptible to becoming dry and brittle when exposed to excessive sunlight. Encourage clients to wear sunglasses or use the InLei® Fashion Lash Fix and Conditioning Gel or the InLei® Frida Mascara to protect & condition lashes.

This is a under-processed lash lift/lash lift didn’t work

Minimal Curl: The lashes may appear slightly lifted at the base but lack a noticeable curl, giving them a droopy or semi-lifted look.

1. Uneven Lift: Some lashes might be partially lifted while others remain straight or in their natural position, creating an inconsistent appearance.

2. Flat Appearance: The lashes would lack volume or definition, appearing flat against the eyelid rather than standing out.

3. Clumped or Misaligned Lashes: Improper application or insufficient tension on the shield might result in lashes clumping together or pointing in different directions.

Underprocessed Lashes: What It Means, Signs, and Causes

What Does "Underprocessed" Mean?
Underprocessed lashes occur when the lash lift treatment fails to deliver the desired results. The curl may be weak or uneven, leaving lashes looking straight or only slightly lifted.

Signs of Underprocessed Lashes:

• Lashes that appear straight or barely curled after treatment.

• A lift that fades quickly, often within days.

• Uneven curls across the lash line.

What Causes Underprocessed Lashes?

• Insufficient processing times, especially for thick or stubborn lash types.

• Incorrect shield size, leading to a less dramatic curl.

• Poor preparation, such as leaving residual oils on the lashes before starting.

• Product issues, such as expired solutions or incorrect storage conditions.

How to Fix Underprocessed Lashes

Unlike overprocessed lashes, underprocessed lashes can often be corrected more easily with a follow-up treatment. Here’s what to do:

1. Repeat the Procedure with Adjustments

• Increase processing time slightly to ensure the solution fully activates.

• Use the correct shield size to achieve the desired curl intensity.

• Properly prepare lashes by thoroughly cleansing them to remove oils or residue.

1. Focus on Application Techniques
   Ensure the lashes are laid out perfectly on the shield with appropriate tension from root to tip. This step is crucial for achieving an even lift.

2. Preventative Steps For Damaged Lashes
   Incorporate comprehensive training to master lash lift techniques. If you are unsure about how to assess the hair porosity, how long to leave solutions on for or how how to apply solutions optimally, we at InLei® have a variety of training courses designed to make you feel confident and prevent lash lift issues. We have our most comprehensive Lash Filler 25.9 training (which is excellent for people that have not yet learnt how to perform lash lifts). We also have a Lash Filler 25.9 conversion course (which is great for trained lash lift artists that have not yet used InLei® products, or would like a refresher on how to use InLei® products properly).

   Further, The InLei® Lash Filler 25.9 system has been developed to protect and enhance the health of your clients lashes. For example, the system includes Molecular 4, a leave-in reconstructive gel that hydrates, strengthens, and protects lashes. This extra step ensures your clients' lashes stay healthy and strong, setting InLei® apart from other brands.

Final Thoughts

When lash lifts don’t go as planned, it’s essential to address the root causes and take the right corrective steps. For over-processed lashes, focus on conditioning and recovery with products like InLei® Fashion Lash Conditioning Fixing Gel. For under-processed lashes, a well-prepared and carefully adjusted repeat procedure can often achieve the perfect lift.

We have filmed a YouTube video which goes into further detail, you can watch it here.

With the right approach and high-quality products, you can ensure your clients leave feeling confident and satisfied every time.